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10-12-2007 UPDATE: This engine lasted me less than 6 months. It developed a long crack along the outside of the block on the drivers side just under the exhaust manifold and would no longer hold water. The engine was much more powerful than it was stock but was still too wimpy for me. I felt that putting any money into another block was a waste unless I could find a 3.4 for cheap.

Please visit the V8 Engine Swap pages for info on my current motor.

The GM/Chevy 60 Degree V6 built a very poor reputation due to it's poor original design in the early 80's. These problems were solved over several years which resulted in a very good engine capable of lasted 200,000 to 300,000 miles. The 84, 85, and some 86 XJ's used the inferior engines.

Here are some notes I made to help rebuild my own 2.8 after burning a valve at 230,000 miles.

If you want to upgrade to a 3.1 or a 3.4 they are the same engine and externally have the same dimensions as the 2.8. What makes them displace more is a longer stroke from the crank and larger piston bore. The only difference you'll run into is that you MUST get the engine from a rear wheel drive vehicle. The front wheel drive motors have the starter motor on the opposite side.

Blocks:

Use only an 86 or later block because at that point Chevy/GM increased the size of the main journals and went to a larger 10mm rear main seal.

Good Block Casting Numbers for the 2.8 are:
14065457, 10065457, 14100695 (aka 457 & 695 blocks) My block is the 457.

Cranks:

(UPDATE) If I were to rebuild my 2.8 again I would have bought a 3.1 "Crank Kit" which includes the crank and bearings. The 3.1 Crank is a drop in replacement for the 2.8 crank. It does require 3.1 pistons (from cast iron heads) but uses the same 2.8 rods which did not change in the 3.1 engine.

There are several cranks that fit this block including all 3.1 and 3.4 cranks. (3.4 cranks from what I've read require some minor machining of the block).

The casting numbers for large journal cranks that fit either of these blocks are:

481, 526 My crank is the 526

These cranks have a "reluctor ring" which is used by electronic ignition systems. A side effect of this ring is that these cranks do not need to be externally balanced. You will need to have your flywheel or flexplate "neutrally balanced" at a machine shop.

Heads:

The cast iron heads although they may have slightly smaller valves are much less prone to head gasket failure than the aluminum heads. The casting numbers for these heads for a carbureted engine are:

14054879, 14054884, 14031327 (I have the 14054879 heads)

Here are some pictures of the rebuild:

Click to enlarge!

The block painted in Ford blue, I hate orange!

You can't see it very well, but there's plastigauge there.

Pistons and Rods going in. Ring gaps were perfect out of the box

The cam ready to go in covered with assembly lube

Marks on the timing gears aligned and ready for front cover.

Heads bought from Clearwater Cylinder Heads in Florida off eBay.

Edelbrock base part of Intake installed

I had to align the clutch plate by hand since the pilot tool was broken. It was very easy to do though, just line up the disc with the pressure plate.

New throwout bearing.

Dropping it in as one piece! Aren't those Fiero Valve Covers sweet?

Brackets and shit!

PS Pump brackets

Belts

Same Belts from the other side

Done

Good picture with the 390 4bbl Holley on it.
   

Done with lot's of clearence

Done
I bought an electric fan off a V6 Camaro and thought it would cool this just fine. To get it to fit I had to move the radiator forward 2 inches. It never cooled and original fan clutch was toast. I replaced it with a space and flex fan which cooled it just fine.